Archive for April, 2011

Sangiovese by any other name …

April 27, 2011 Leave a comment

What do you think of when you hear “Sangiovese?”
Chianti, perhaps, since that region and its wines often are recognized as the pinnacle of Sangiovese winemaking.
Whether or not you agree with Chianti’s status, Sangiovese remains Italy’s widest-planted red grape and it follows there are many delightful wines being made from this at-once complex and yet malleable grape.
Romagna, of course, is making some wonderful Sangioveses, wines ranging from easy quaffers to those with depth, great balance and spicy tannins, particularly the Riserva level of wines.
Colleague Michael Franz wrote this after several of us recently spent a week touring vineyards in Romagna.
It’s not surprising that excellent Sangiovese are being made by many Italian winemakers and recently I tasted some Sangiovese from Montalcino, where the local Sangiovese clone (sangioverorosso) is better known as Brunello.
The area has a long history of winemaking and in 1980 Montalcino received Italy’s first Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) designation.
As an aside, Italy recently named three new DOCG and DOC wines, bringing the seemingly never-ending list of DOCG areas to 61 (or 62.) It’s enough to make your head spin and understand why the wine gods are also confused.
CastelGiocondo Brunello di Montalcino 2005 DOCG ($50) is 100 percent Sangiovese (according to DOCG regulations) and brings an attractive nose of red berry, dark fruit and a hint of violets along with dark chocolate, tobacco and espresso.
Bright flavors and fine tannins, carrying a hint of the extended oak aging (a mix of Slavonian oak casks and French oak barrels), and the wine’s acidity make this an extremely food-friendly red with a lingering, lovely finish.
Wine Spectator listed the 2004 vintage as the 15th Best Wine in the World.
Marchesi de Frescobaldi, producer of the CastelGiocondo Brunello di Montalcino, also makes a Riserva ($100), produced in limited amounts only in the best vintages. The wine is aged for 5 years (at least two in barrique, one on the large botti and at least one in bottle), yielding a warm, intensely structured wine with a long finish.
The wines are imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners of Napa.

Categories: Uncategorized

Covering VinItaly on the cheap

For various reasons (like, 2,000 of them, about what the trip would cost me) I’m not getting to VinItaly this year. It’s not that I’m not interested in seeing Verona, Italy or too busy to taste a couple thousand wines or anything, I’m just not there.
Instead, I’m following the action through the ether: reading press releases sent from the VinItaly press office and on some favorite blogs, including those by Susannah Gold and Alfonso Cevola, aka The Italian Wine Guy.
Susannah speaks impeccable Italian (including several different dialects, which comes in handy when dealing with Italy’s 20 wine-making regions) and during a recent visit to New York City for Italian Wine Week Susannah introduced me to Kris Kim, VinItaly COO and a charming, hardworking spokesperson for all wines Italian. All of which means that even though I stay here in the States, the contacts in Italy are among the best.
One recent release that Susannah wrote on concerned a seminar (actually, a series of related seminars) on the question, “Do Italians still love wine?”
That’s a question you might never expect to hear voiced out loud, particularly when it’s voiced at VinItaly, the world’s largest gathering of Italian wines and winemakers.
However, that was the very question on many lips last week at one of the trade seminars offered during Vinitaly’s four-day run that ended Sunday in Verona, Italy.
To be blithe, the answer is yes but maybe not as much as in the past. Forty years ago, Italians managed to down 100 liters (about 133 of those .750 liter bottles, about 26 gallons) of wine per person per year.
Today, that’s dwindled to a comparatively meager 42 liters per year. But it’s positively W.C. Fieldsian compared to Americans who, according to the Wine Institute, choke down just under 9 liters (less than seven bottles, about 2 gallons) per person.
According to some 2009 numbers from the Wine Institute, the leader in per-capita wine consumption is Vatican City State where the 932 or so residents down 70.22 liters (18.5 gallons) per person each year.
That’s not as much as it sounds. It comes out to about 1.35 liters (less than two of those .750-liter bottles) per week, which won’t nearly keep up with most of my friends.
Italy’s 42 liters per person is sixth in per person wine consumption while the U.S. at 8.96 liters per person is far down the list, behind such notable wine countries as Finland, the Cook Islands and New Caledonia, the French Territory in the South Pacific where residents drink almost 21 liters per person per year.
But here’s the biggie: Even though American drink less wine per person that Italians, there are WAY more of us drinking our share.
Last year, for the first time the United States surpassed Italy in terms of total wine consumption, Wine Institute said.
Wine Institute reported that in terms of total consumption the U.S., drinking 2.75 billion liters, is second only to France (2.9 billion liters). Italy now is third, at 2.45 billion liters.
Which doesn’t necessarily support any theory purporting Italians losing their love for wine. What it might indicate, though, is how world economics and the changing demographics of Italian wine drinkers are affecting that country’s wine consumption.
Contrary to what the dreamy-eyed Italophiles among us might think, only 40 percent of Italians say they drink wine everyday, said a report from VinItaly.
Many Italians are saying they have reduced consumption due to economic or health concerns.
Curiously, wine industry consultants Gomberg, Fredrikson & Associates in Woodside, Cal, reported earlier this year that year the U.S. surpassed France as the world’s largest wine-consuming nation as wine shipments to the U.S. from California (leading a reader to believe California no longer is part of the U.S.), other states and foreign producers grew to nearly 330 million cases, a record high for the industry.
Gomberg, et al, said the estimated retail value of these sales was $30 billion, up 4% from 2009.
The French, meanwhile, consumed 320.6 million cases of wine in 2010, Gomberg said.
Robert Koch, president and CEO of Wine Institute, said U.S. wine-market conditions remain “highly competitive”, which usually means lower prices for consumers, and he expects the growth in wine consumption to continue.
“Americans are increasingly interested in a lifestyle with wine and food, demonstrated by the presence of wineries in all 50 states and 17 consecutive years of growth in U.S. wine consumption,” Koch.
Other countries to watch include China, which last year increased its wine consumption by 36 percent, and Russia, where wine consumption last year jumped by 30 percent.
The panelists at VinItaly had a handful of suggestions for developing new consumers, including marketing campaigns aimed at women and at young people just developing their interest in wine.
Italian wine producers also are exploring ways to increase sale in supermarkets, which currently account for 60 percent of that country’s wine sales.
Many states in the U.S. allow food stores to sell wine but Colorado isn’t among them. Buying wine in a food store generally is a “caveat emptor” experience, since few stores (none, in my experience) offer the level of expertise found in dedicated wine and liquor stores.